Match of the week

Slow-cooked beef cheek and Cotes du Rhone

Slow-cooked beef cheek and Cotes du Rhone

There’s so much inexpensive Côtes du Rhône about that it’s easy to forget that it can be a sufficiently substantial wine to take on a richly flavoured dish, especially if it comes from a named village and a good vintage.

The dish, which we had at Clarette in Marylebone, was a main course of slow cooked beef cheek with a luxuriant olive oil-based mash, onion and bone marrow - the charred onion really adding to the success of the pairing.

And the wine? The powerful Domaine des Maravilhas, Maestral Rouge 2015, Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun (a classic blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre) which comes from a biodynamically run estate. It doesn't retail in the UK but obviously a similar style of Côtes du Rhône would work equally well.

I ate at Clarette as a guest of Inter Rhône

Smoked haddock and apple salad with New Zealand Riesling

Smoked haddock and apple salad with New Zealand Riesling

I was overwhelmed with good wine pairings last week but given that quite a few were similar to ones I’ve written about before I’m making this my star match.

It was the starter at the Aldeburgh Food & Drink Festival supper - a terrific event laid on by the organisers of the event for the sponsors and speakers. I liked the fact that it was billed as a ‘supper’ rather than a ‘dinner’. Apart from the starter, which was plated up beforehand, the food was served family style down a huge long table (right). It made for a particularly relaxed and convivial evening.

East Anglia is known for its smoked fish so the starter was based on Pinney’s smoked haddock which was served raw like a carpaccio with local salad leaves, a julienne of apple and sour cream.

It was partnered with a crisp, dry Riesling from Forrest Wines which had a note of apple and citrus itself which matched the dish quite beautifully. (Riesling is generally good with smoked fish too). You can buy it from Adnams for £9.99 a bottle or £8.99 by the case.

The main course pairing was excellent too: an almost gamey beef and oyster pie with mash and braised red cabbage with elderberries, matched with a Domaine St Anne 2007 St Gervais, Cotes du Rhone Villages (also from Adnams at £15.99 a bottle.) Another good match to add to the Grenache list.

 

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